I can’t remember a time I had such a thrill of discovering a surprise hidden gem quite like Villa Romana del Tellaro, (also known as the Villa of Caddeddi). To be honest, I’d never even heard of it until the day we went, but say “mosaic” to me, and I’m in!
Tucked away in rural southeastern Sicily, far from the crowds and major tourist arteries you’ll find a Roman villa that is small in footprint but huge in impact.
We arrived by car, and for most of our time there we were the only visitors. Inside, incredible vibrant mosaics; outside, the expansive countryside has been unchanged for millenia.
In this guide you’ll learn the history and fascinating story of its discovery, what you’ll see at the site, how to get there, visiting tips, and why I’m glad we visited Tellaro before the colossal Villa Romana del Casale – it whetted our appetite and set us up perfectly.
The Fascinating Story of Villa Romana del Tellaro
Origins of the Villa Romana del Tellaro
Built in the late Roman period (4th century AD) on what was an agricultural estate that would have exported grain, olive oil, or wine, Villa Romana del Tellaro is a striking example of how prosperity, art, and inheritance converged in Sicily.
It was built during a time of outmigration from cities by people of means and wealth. It was easier to defend your villa in the country than to try to keep everything safe in the city, and the taxes were a lot less. That was the thinking anyway… Still, the villa was burned in the 5th century, causing damage to some of the mosaics. It was never rebuilt.
Further damage came when a 17th-18th century farmhouse was built on top of the old foundations. But as sad as I was that much of the site has been lost, what does remain is just stunning. So, better something than nothing!
The star of the villa is the mosaic pavement in the main rooms, especially the large geometric mosaic which has unusually bold color.
Discovery, Looting, and Preservation
According to reports, the existence of the Villa Romana del Tellaro came to light in the early 1970s after locals began finding fragments of mosaic tiles and decorative stones in the fields. Then, the Carabinieri (Italian cultural police) got wind of some suspicious nocturnal digging happening around an old abandoned farmhouse on the outskirts of Noto in Southern Sicily.
It turns out that the pilferers had discovered the mosaics underneath the existing floor of an abandoned farmhouse. The artifact thieves who stumbled upon them were removing and trying to sell them and other artifacts from the site on the black market.
The Italian cultural police do not take kindly to this – not in the 1970s and not now. They intervened immediately, putting the brakes on the pillaging, and ensuring that what remained was saved.
This site finally opened to the public in 2008, after the mosaics have been removed by professionals, taken to the Archaeological Museum in Syracuse, painstakingly restored, and returned to the site of their discovery. You can now go and see the largest ones for yourself. They are absolutely breathtaking!
There are so many colors, 3D effects, and even water that almost seems to move and flow. The complexity of the images just took my breath away. The beauty of the art, created by highly-skilled African craftsmen, mixed with its fascinating history and preservation gives the site real narrative drama.
Information About Your Visit to the Villa Romana del Tellaro
The Entrance & Site Setting
Drive through vineyards and countryside roads to find the villa’s parking area. The site is very small, but the signage on the road is clear making it easy to find.
There are restrooms inside the courtyard, but minimal facilities beyond that. Bring water, and plan for a calm, reflective visit rather than a full-day adventure.
The Mosaic Room of the Villa Romana del Tellaro
The largest area of the villa which is covered but open to the outside is the great mosaic room.
On one side of the room you’ll find a huge geometric mosaic which fills the former portico. This mosaic was not removed and reconstructed and remains in its original place. You can even see some dark areas from the fire.
I’m pretty comfortable saying that of all the geometric mosaics I’ve seen in Italy and beyond, this one is my absolute favorite. The shapes, unique patterns of laurel wreaths, and vivid colors just put me right in my happy place.
On the other side, there are three rooms containing figurative scenes which are equally enchanting! There are people, animals, mythical creatures, vines, flowers, and birds. But the most incredible part for me was looking at the mosaics of animals walking through water. The creativity and talent of the mosaic artists was humbling. The three mosaics depict a hunt, a Bacchus mosaic, and the ransom of the body of Hector.
Even though you don’t have direct access to the mosaics, the walkway above is fairly close and you really do have time to examine and absorb all the different scenes. Because the space is relatively small, I found myself really lingering and appreciating these mosaics because I had time to spend.
🥖 The Kitchen Area
Adjacent to the main residential quarters, the kitchen area has been preserved and was likely a bustling hub of activity. Large storage jars and remnants of cooking facilities were discovered here, indicating that this space was used for food preparation and preservation. You can even see an ancient oven!
🛁 Bathing and Water Management
To the north of the villa, remnants of a bathing complex have been identified. Additionally, the discovery of cisterns suggests a sophisticated water management system, essential for maintaining the villa’s day to day operations and ensuring a steady water supply for both domestic use and agricultural activities.
🏚️ The Farmhouse Overlay
In the 17th or 18th century, a farmhouse was constructed atop the ruins of the villa, leading to the preservation of certain structures beneath it. This overlay has provided archaeologists with a unique opportunity to study multiple layers of the site, showing how the villa evolved over time, and offering clues about its eventual abandonment and how its foundations were repurposed.
Landscape & Atmosphere
Outside the villa, you’ll be able to see some of the foundation walls and structures of the original site. A map located on the wall at the entrance to the villa shows the original villa’s plan in all its glory. There are also vineyards and rolling countryside that have remained virtually unchanged since the 4th century BC.
Tips for Visiting Villa Romana del Tellaro
- 📍 Location: Southeastern Sicily, approximately 20 minutes from the town of Noto, about 1 hour from Syracuse.
- 🚗 By Car: The easiest way. Follow signs for Villa Romana del Tellaro from Noto, then continue on the local road.
- 🚌 Without Car: Public transport is limited; if staying locally, consider a taxi.
- 🅿️ Parking: Lot near the entrance; small, but sufficient.
Tickets & Hours
- 🎟️ Tickets: €6 for adults and kids under 18 get in free.
- 🚨 Credit card or debit card payment only
- 🕘 Opening Hours: Usually around 9:00 am to late afternoon; closing time varies seasonally.
- 🧭 Time Needed: We stayed for just one hour, but really got to dwell in the villa and fully enjoy the mosaics. Allow more time if you like to linger, or want to take a bunch of photos.
Walking Conditions & Amenities
- 👟 Terrain: The site is mostly flat around the villa, and inside the building and in the covered mosaic area floors are flat.
- ♿️ There are a few stairs to get up to the villa and mosaic area, but there is a ramp and alternate entrance which allows for wheelchair accessibility.
- 🌞 Shade & Water: The mosaic area, and the villa are all shaded, but the countryside around is full sun. Bring a water bottle, and sunglasses.
- 🧻 Facilities: There are restrooms on site; but there is no food or snack service so plan accordingly
- 🐾 Dog-friendliness: Dogs are not permitted at the Villa Romana del Tellaro
Why Visit Tellaro Before Casale if Possible
We visited Tellaro first during a day trip to Noto, and then the next day we tackled the larger and more famous Villa Romana del Casale. That order worked marvelously. Tellaro’s small size offered a slow immersion into Roman mosaic art, allowed us to really spend time appreciating the craftsmanship, and built anticipation.
When we got to Casale, with its massive scale and dozens of rooms, we were ready, and not overwhelmed. To be honest, if you did it the reverse order, Casale might steal the thunder and Tellaro could feel like an “afterthought.” So if it works for you, Visit Tellaro, and soak it in. Then let Casale knock your socks off.
🏛 If ancient Sicily fascinates you, continue your journey with my detailed guide to the Villa Romana del Casale and its incredible mosaics.
Round Out Your Day With a Visit to the Gorgeous Baroque City of Noto
A visit to Villa Romana del Tellaro pairs perfectly with a day trip to Noto! We hit the villa in the morning, and then spent the rest of the day exploring Noto with its jaw-dropping Baroque architecture, quaint museums, photo ops galore, and incredible food.
Is Villa Romana del Tellaro Worth it?
Villa Romana del Tellaro is truly a hidden gem. It takes less time, has fewer crowds, and offers an experience that feels really personal. If you’re in Sicily and your schedule allows, make space for it. Even though it’s “in the middle of nowhere,” that remoteness is part of the charm.
I stood there and enjoyed the fact that this wasn’t a ruin that had been built around. The view and the feeling of the open countryside was absolutely genuine to its origins.
It’s perfect as an appetizer for Villa Romana del Casale and its dozens of rooms, as part of a day trip to Noto, or a great quick stop if you want to get the mosaic experience but you don’t have time to do a full day.
🌤 Current Weather in Noto, Sicily
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