The Greek Theater of Taormina: Drama, History & Volcano Views

The Greek Theater of Taormina proves that if the ancient Greeks knew one thing, it’s where to build a theater. Carved from a natural terrace high above the Ionian Sea, it’s not only an archaeological treasure chest, but has one of the most cinematic views in all of Italy. The huge stage and the remnants of ancient columns frame the dramatic silhouette of Mount Etna, across the water. Hollywood and AI couldn’t have come up with anything better.

We went on a hot day, and it was a little bit of an effort to get to the very top of the rows of seats, but wow was it worth it! I waited until I got to the top to turn around and it literally took my breath away. If you’ve ever wondered what a peak ancient theatrical experience must have been like, this is your place. As a theater major and ancient history nerd who has traveled all around Sicily seeking out ancient sites, this theater really took the cake.

As with many ancient sites in Sicily this stunning amphitheater was originally built by the Greeks, but later expanded by the Romans. Both cultures revered spectacle, performance, and architecture, and each left their very different signature in this amazing amphitheater which is located just south of Catania on Sicily’s east coast.

In this post you’ll learn about the theater’s fascinating history, how to get there, why you should visit, what to expect, some hidden gems, and lesser-known facts that will level up your visit even more!

What You'll Find in this Post

History of the Greek Theater of Taormina

Greek Origins and Drama

The Greek Theater (Teatro Greco) was originally built in the 3rd century BC, during Taormina’s days as a Hellenistic city known as Tauromenion. The Greeks were master builders of theaters, and especially of integrating their architecture with the natural world around it. Whoever scouted this location thousands of years ago hit the jackpot.

The view is just over the top, encompassing the greenery, the town, the sea, the sky, and even an active volcano. The seats were carved directly into the natural hillside, using the slops for acoustics and sightlines.

This venue would have had seating for about 5000 people, and hosted the classic Greek dramas and comedies, musical performances, and civic ceremonies.

Be sure to check out the small display as you enter the theater where you can see bricks with the original makers marks, and even the names of patrons carved into their seat backs! I really enjoyed this section, although it was small. It personalized this huge stone space with the names of actual artisans and patrons.

Greek masons mark at the Greek Theater of Taormina

Roman Expansion and Gladiator Games

When the Romans arrived in Taormina, 500 years after the construction of the Greek theater, they set about to reshape and expand it to fit their own purposes – namely gladiatorial games and spectacles. The stage and orchestra areas were renovated and expanded to make room for an arena, and the stage building was rebuilt using marble and signature Roman brick, along with huge Corinthian columns and statues.

I thought one of the coolest things about this site is that you can really see the literal fusion of these two architectural styles, and how the building changed over the centuries to fit the needs and desires of the ruling culture of the time. I’m a huge fan of Roman brick and seeing how it grew out of the Greek foundations was just fascinating.

Thanks to this Roman expansion, the Greek Theater of Taormina became the second-largest in Sicily, after the incredible amphitheater in the Syracuse Archaeological Park in Siracusa which we visited on the same trip.

Roman brickwork at the Greek Theater of Taormina

Modern Times

Sicily’s long history of earthquakes, and invasions have unfortunately taken a huge toll on many of the ancient archaeological sites on the island. But Taormina’s ancient theater remains remarkably intact from these events. But after the fall of Rome, the theater was abandoned, and then quarried for materials.

Many of the decorative elements and much of the stone was carted away and repurposed to build other buildings, like the nearby cathedral. But then in the 18th century it was “rediscovered” by European travelers on the Grand Tour who romanticized it as a ruin of the distant classical past.

The German writer and philosopher Goethe, who visited the site in 1787, wrote that the theater offered “the greatest view in the world” and I am firmly in his camp on this one. From the top tiers of seats, you see the shimmering Ionian coast, the town of Giardini Naxos below, and Mount Etna beyond in all its volcanic majesty. Absolutely transcendental…

*Marble detail at the Greek Theater of Taormina*

You can see in a couple places where they’ve put pieces of what the facade of the theater would have been – the incredible marble detail that would have covered the building. I tried to imagine this kind of incredible marble everywhere and how different the site would have looked in its prime.

The Greek Theater of Taormina Today

Unlike many ruins, Taormina’s Greek Theater isn’t just frozen in time as a historical relic, it’s a living theater! Every summer, it transforms into an open-air venue for concerts, operas, and the Taormina Film Festival, which has hosted legends like Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, and Francis Ford Coppola.

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed when I first entered the space and saw a bunch of modern seating which kind of interrupted my time travel to the past, but honestly the idea that this ancient performance space can still be utilized for its original purpose after more than 2000 years, made me totally fine with that. I can only imagine what those original Greek builders would have thought if they knew that their efforts would still be in use now.

Modern seating at the Greek Theater of Taormina

Visiting the Greek Theatre of Taormina

Via del Teatro Greco, Taormina, Sicily

🕰 Hours: Open daily at 9:00am until an hour before sunset. You can check for specific closing times by month.

🎟 Tickets: €14 for adults; and free for under 18. Or get your skip-the-line ticket plus an audioguide for the site!

⌚️ Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon for softer light, cooler temperatures, and fewer crowds.

☀️💧Bring water and sun protection. The sun can be intense. There’s a little bit of shade inside, but you’ll mostly be in the sun, so sunglasses, hats, and sunscreen are in order.

👟 Wear good shoes. Some of the stone steps are uneven and steep. This is no territory for heels or flip flops.

Stairs from the stage at the Greek Theater of Taormina

📷 Photography: The best view is from the upper tiers of seats

♿️ Accessibility: The theater is partially but not fully accessible for those with mobility challenges. The lower tier is wheelchair accessible, and there are platforms for a better view, but the upper tiers are reached by many steps and are difficult to access without assistance.

🅿️ Parking: We parked at the Parcheggio Porta Catania which is about a 25 minute walk to the theater. And it’s 25 minutes that is very well spent. It’s right through the main street of Taormina filled with restaurants overlooking the sea, boutique clothing shops, craft stores, souvenir stores selling local foods and perfumes, ceramics and more.

Souvenir greek theatrical masks near the Greek Theater of Taormina — *Greek theatrical masks in a gift shop near the theater*

You’ll park underground in a garage, but pay at an above ground payment kiosk right in the main square.

Map of parking in Taormina to visit the Greek Theater of Taormina

Paying for parking in Taormina — *Parcheggio Porta Catania payment kiosk*

Fun Facts About the Greek Theater of Taormina

🏛 Although it’s called the “Greek Theater,” much of what you see today, especially the brickwork, is Roman.

🎤 The ancient Greeks were masters of acoustics. Even whispers from the stage could once be heard in the back rows.

🍇 A hidden altar was discovered by archaeologists beneath the stage! It was likely used for Dionysian rites before performances.

🌋 There is volcanic ash and pumice in the mortar from Mount Etna!

🎬 The ancient theater of Taormina is featured extensively in the 1995 film Mighty Aphrodite and is also featured in season 2, episode 2, of the HBO series The White Lotus (2023).

How to Get to the Greek Theater of Taormina from Catania

🚗🚕 By car/taxi: About 42 minutes

🚌 By bus: Catania via Archimede → Taormina – Via Luigi Pirandello is about 1 hour 10 minutes

🚉 By train: Catania Centrale → Taormina-Giardini is about 1 hour

Is the Greek Theater of Taormina Dog Friendly?

Believe it or not, yes! You can bring your dog into the site. I saw several dogs and their people enjoying the exploration and living their best lives. Of course be sure your dog is calm and on a leash.

Dog-friendly travel at the Greek Theater of Taormina

Is the Greek Theater of Taormina Worth Visiting?

The Greek Theater of Taormina is an incredibly special place. Walking through the site, you can really see how civilizations build upon one another: the Greeks with their vision for a venue featuring drama and comedy, the Romans modifying it for the grand spectacle of competition, and modern people still gathering here to enjoy the very human pastime of watching other humans perform and entertain.

Taormina can feel a little overrun with tourists especially in summer, but this site is absolutely worth the crowd. Whether you come for the history, the Instagrammable view, or simply to bask in thousands of years of human creativity and performance, you’ll leave feeling connected to something timeless.

A view from the Greek Theater of Taormina

✅ Save time waiting and reserve your skip-the-line tickets plus audioguide for the Greek Theater of Taormina

The Greek Theater of Taormina: Drama, History & Volcano Views