At the end of a narrow lane off the main Waterloo battlefield road, Hougoumont Farm feels, at first glance, like a beautiful and serene retreat. Stone walls wrap around tidy whitewashed buildings, and a small, simple chapel invites quiet reflection. Stunning white roses bloom along the path, and a view opens up toward the iconic Lion’s Mound in the distance.
If you didn’t know what happened here, you’d think you stumbled onto a postcard-perfect farmstead in the Belgian countryside.
But what took place at Hougoumont Farm on June 18, 1815, was anything but peaceful. The fierce and brutal fighting here earned Hougoumont Farm the moniker of “The Battle Within the Battle.” Many historians argue that it was also the key to victory for the Allies. The Duke of Wellington who led the British against Napoleon knew this himself and told his men to hold the farm at all costs.
There were several key events that played into the Allied victory – the rain-soaked terrain that delayed the start, the arrival of Prussian troops – but holding the line at Hougoumont ranks among the most critical.
Visiting Hougoumont Farms is a surprisingly emotional experience – one that juxtaposes its charming beauty with chilling stories of hand-to-hand combat, fire, loss, and unimaginable courage. I’ll walk you through what to expect, what to look for, and the most astounding story of them all.
What Was the Battle of Waterloo?
The Battle of Waterloo took place on June 18, 1815, just south of Brussels. It marked the final defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte, who had returned from exile and was attempting to reclaim his power in France. Facing him were the Allied armies under the Duke of Wellington, and also the Prussian forces under Field Marshal Gebhard von Blücher.
The battle was decisive, brutal, and costly, and it changed the course of European history, ending decades of Napoleonic War, and ushering in the end of an Empire.
Why Was Hougoumont Farm Important in the Battle of Waterloo?
Hougoumont Farm was a strategic stronghold on Wellington’s right flank. Napoleon ordered repeated attacks on it throughout the day, hoping to draw in Allied reserves and break Wellington’s line. The French never took the farm though, despite breaching its gates, and many believe the successful defense of Hougoumont Farm helped secure Wellington’s victory by diverting French troops and resources to the scene of fighting at the farm while Wellington maintained control of the ridge.
🧐 Want to see where the Commanders were before the battle began?
Getting to Hougoumont Farm
Hougoumont is part of the larger Waterloo Battlefield site (which includes the Lion’s Mound monument, the Memorial Museum, and the Panorama) and is accessible via car or by shuttle from the main museum complex.
The parking situation confused us a bit, and after a long walk we realized we could have parked right by the gate after all.
You can walk to Hougoumont from the Museum if you are inclined. It’s about 1.5 kilometers away.
Walking Through History: What You’ll See at the Hougoumont Farm Today
The Old Chestnut Trees
When you pull in to the parking area near the South Gate, you can’t help but notice the dramatic and foreboding outline of a huge dead chestnut tree which was a witness to the battle. Four trees stood in all. Three are dead, and one of these fell down in a storm in March of 2021. It’s forbidden to touch or go near the trees, but it’s pretty incredible that they are there. If they could only speak.
The South Gate of Hougoumont That Held
As you step into the courtyard through the South Gate, you’ll see a memorial plaque, and several structures which remain partially ruined – a reminder of the inferno and chaos that engulfed and destroyed parts of the farm during the battle.
The Chapel Spared from Fire
The small chapel is one of the most interesting places on site. It too caught fire during the battle, and even the medieval wooden crucifix inside was burned. But only one leg of the crucifix was ultimately destroyed, and the rest remained intact because the fire went out. You can see it now hanging above the door.
After the battle it was the only still-enclosed space and was used to house the wounded, up to 45 men at a time. It was also used as a surgery, and many amputations happened here as well. Memorial wreaths of red poppies lined the chapel when we were there.
The North Gate, Where History Was Made
The most famous moment at Hougoumont was the storming, and subsequent closing of the north gate. After fierce fighting at both the north and south entrances, French troops managed to breach the north gate and began pouring into the courtyard.
Amidst the chaos and carnage, a handful of Allied soldiers somehow managed to force the gates shut and barricaded them, trapping the French attackers. Things did not go well for those inside the gate with no way out.
A memorial now stands nearby, honoring those who held the gates – a tribute to one heroic moment that may well have turned the tide of the battle.
Exhibits and Artifacts of the Waterloo Battlefield
With your 1815 Pass or a ticket to the broader battlefield complex, you can explore the grounds, view the movie, and see displays of artifacts found on-site and nearby.
One small but fascinating item is a uniform button from the Scots Guard unearthed by the archaeological team from the British TV show Time Team. Details like this remind you that the battle wasn’t fought by anonymous legions, but by individual men, each with his own story including a Scottish soldier who lost a button.
You can check out the discovery on this clip of the Time Team episode!
Nearby, you can see the famous well (now covered) and its old wooden wheel. According to legend, made infamous by Victor Hugo’s novel Les Misérables, French prisoners were thrown into the well during or after the battle, some allegedly still alive.
Hugo claims 300 bodies were dumped there, and that weak cries could be heard from the depths. The signage at the site casts doubt on this story, noting that the well was the only drinking water source for the troops. Still, it lingers in your mind. Whether true or not, standing beside that well feels like standing near an unmarked grave.
The Multimedia Experience at the Hougoumont Farm
Of all the things to see at Hougoumont Farm, the main focal point of your visit will be inside one of the barns, where you’ll see a short multimedia film that brings the events of the day to life. Screenings alternate between English and French, and the schedule is posted outside.
There are long wooden benches and the barn is shaded so it’s a nice break if the day is sunny.
The production is impactful and immersive, drawing you into the brutal chaos of June 18 through sound, visuals, and narration. It offers a visceral sense of the violence, confusion, and heroism that unfolded at the farm as you sit in the very spot where it all happened.
Why Hougoumont Farm Is the Most Emotional Stop at Waterloo
Of all the sites we visited on the battlefield, Hougoumont affected me the most. Standing in its courtyard, looking over the wall toward the Lion’s Mound, I imagined what that landscape must have looked like on the morning of the battle before the fire, before the bloodshed. Intellectually, you know the huge empty fields around you were filled with soldiers.
But it’s at Hougoumont, with its ruins and the ghosts that seem to walk with you, that you begin to feel it. This is where the history became really tangible to me.
Before leaving, we sat for a moment in the courtyard with a Waterloo beer, taking it all in. It was hard to reconcile that serenity with what we had just experienced, but maybe that’s the power of Hougoumont. It holds both realities at once: the beauty of the countryside and the brutality of battle, layered atop one another marking the same site over the passage of time.
✅ Visitor Information
🧭 Address: Chemin du Goumont 1, 1420 Braine-l’Alleud, Belgium
📅 Opening Hours: Generally, the farm is open every day from 11am – 6pm but check the website to be sure
🎟️ Admission: Included with the battlefield complex ticket, or the 1815 Pass (which includes Wellington’s and Napoleon’s HQ also)
🎧 Audioguides: Audioguides are available in English, French, German, and Dutch
🕒 Time Needed: We were there 90 minutes, including the beer. Allow anywhere from 60 to 90+ if you linger.
🅿️ Parking: Limited but free at the site
🚌 Shuttle: May be available from the main museum; confirm on the day of your visit
🗺️ Visiting Hougoumont Farm from Brussels: Train, bus, taxi, or drive your way from Brussels to the Waterloo Battlefield site
♿ Accessibility: There are some uneven surfaces, cobblestones, and grassy areas, but no stairs.
👟 Footwear: Wear comfortable walking shoes.
🚫🐶 Dogs: Dogs are not permitted on site
Final Thoughts on the Hougoumont Farm
While uniforms, weapons, and artifacts tell one side of a story, and walking the floorboards of the main battle headquarters tell another, the Hougoumont Farm is where I really felt its brutality, its force, and the small acts that turned the tide of the moment, which turned the tide of the battle, which turned the tide of the war.
It’s really one of the most compelling stories of the Battle of Waterloo, and no amount of reading about it will give you the same raw experience as when you are standing there in the middle of it. It’s an experience and a story that will be with you long after you leave.
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- Inside Napoleon’s Last Headquarters: Visiting the Caillou Farm in Waterloo
- The Wellington Museum in Waterloo: The Duke’s Headquarters Before Battle
- Waterloo Battlefield Museum Guide: Exploring the Lion’s Mound and the Legacy of Napoleon
- Napoleon’s Tomb in Paris: Why It’s Bigger, Wilder & Grander Than You Think