The Haguenau Christmas market in Northern Alsace, France, lives in the shadow of her big sister Strasbourg. Let’s face it, Strasbourg is the Queen of them all in terms of Christmas markets, but with that title comes crowds, and a degree of hustle and bustle that’s definitely exciting – but not necessarily relaxing.
If you have visited Strasbourg (which you totally should), but want to get away from the big city for a taste of what a small-to-medium-sized, homier Christmas market in postcard-perfect rural France is like, then this is the market for you! And it’s less than half an hour by car from Strasbourg!
It’s also perfect if you’re on a German Christmas market journey and want to hop the border to experience something a little different.
Haguenau [pronounced AGANO] will always have a special place in my heart because it’s the very first Christmas market we visited after moving to a little village just across the border in Germany. I really thought to myself that it couldn’t get much more charming than this, and I haven’t changed my mind!
Haguenau Christmas Market Dates
November 22 – December 30, 2024
The market is the only one in the area to be open every day (except Christmas Day) for five weeks, making it a perfect stop on weekdays when weekend-only markets aren’t open, or after Christmas when most others have packed it in for the season.
Haguenau Christmas Market Location
Throughout the city center in the Place de la République, Place d’Armes, and Place Joseph Thierry, you’ll find about fifty wooden market stalls decorated with greenery and lights .
The festivities are right in the pedestrian town center, which is closed to car traffic, so it’s easy to stroll under the canopies of light with your “vin chaud” (hot mulled wine), or hot chocolate, and take in all the Christmas ambiance around you.
Haguenau, the Birthplace of the Nativity Scene in Alsace
Haguenau has a fascinating Christmas history, and prides itself on being the birthplace of the nativity scene in Alsace. The first written record of a nativity scene came in 1420 when a record in the Haguenau municipal archives mentions the construction of a manger in the church of Saint Georges. The exact text reads, “… the construction of the manger surrounded by branches, on the outer walls of Saint Georges, cost 4 schillings minus 4 pfennigs. Hermann supplied the branches.”
And you’ll see that very church of Saint Georges still standing in Haguenau six hundred years later! Also featured throughout the market is an exhibition of beautiful nativity scenes to enjoy. You’ll also find full nativity scenes, and individual figures for sale at the market, making it a really special place to buy gifts, and a must-visit market for collectors of nativity scenes.
Events and Activities
Throughout Advent season, Haguenau’s lively market offers a variety of things to see and do. You’ll find street theatre, Christmas concerts, parades, a cute treasure hunt, and more. The vibe is really that of a community celebration where locals come to enjoy. So if it’s authenticity you want, you’ll have it.
Kids can even write and mail a letter to the North Pole, and if they’re lucky, they can get to see St. Nicholas himself in his chalet! He’s usually there on Wednesdays and weekends.
The beautiful focal point of the town center, though, is the incredible carousel which gave the first children rides all the way back in the year 1900! It really is like stepping back in time seeing kids enjoying the ride on a variety of carved wooden animals like lions, and horses, and even the mascot of Alsace – the stork!
Ambiance, and Oh, la la!
One of the most enchanting thing about the Haguenau Christmas market is its brilliant use of light. Buildings become magical, flooded with light projections in ever-shifting colors of deep blue, crimson, and plum. Twinkling lights and Christmas stars drape passageways and streets. Snowflakes flutter and dance across façades. And arches, and tunnels of light just beckon for photo ops!
There’s also a huge decorated Christmas tree, and the gorgeous hand-carved nativity scenes seem to pop up on every corner. You’ll also find wooden rocking horses, giant teddy bears, larger than life ornaments and wreaths… It truly feels like you’ve just walked into a postcard, or a movie set.
Food and Drink
The Alsace region has tremendous culinary influence from Germany, since the region has changed hands many times over the years. You will find pretzels – plain as well as sweet with pudding, and savory with cheese. There’s also flammkuchen (tarte flambée in French) which is a delightful crispy flatbread. It comes with various toppings but the traditional Alsacian version is bacon, onions, and cream.
And if you’ve never had dampfnudeln, you are in for a treat! It means ‘steamed dumpling’ in German, but it’s way more delicious than it sounds. The bottom of the dumpling is crisp and the dough is slightly sweet and filled with a vanilla custard and topped with a thick creamy sweet sauce. You’ll be dreaming about it, trust me.
But despite all the German influence, you’ll also definitely know you’re in France! There are all kinds of delectable treats you won’t find across the border at Christmas markets like lobsters, champagne, paté, and french cheeses! They’ve also got top quality candied fruits and artisanal marzipan to die for.
Of course no Christmas market would be complete without hot mulled wine. In German it’s called glühwein, but in France it’s “vin chaud,” and hot chocolate is “chocolat chaud.” Delicious no matter the language!
And speaking of wine, you’ll be in some of the greatest wine country in the world, and opportunities abound to grab a few bottles of local Alsacian ‘vin’ to bring home.
You will not leave this market hungry or with an empty shopping bag!
Why Haguenau Christmas Market?
🇫🇷🇩🇪🇬🇧Many people in Haguenau speak English fairly well, especially if they are in the hospitality industry. You’ll find that especially younger people who have taken English in school after the formation of the European Union are very proficient. And the market itself advertises that French, German, and English are all spoken! If someone in one of the market stalls isn’t English proficient, they are happy to find the person who is and who can help you.
🕰 This market is not only open 7 days a week (except Christmas Day), it is open until December 30th making it a great option if you have guests in town, have some extra time after the holiday, or just didn’t quite get your Christmas market fix in before the big day.
🅿️ The parking is fairly easy with both free and paid public parking areas within easy walking distance of the market. The train station is also right next to the market. And there are many hotel options right in the middle of the action.
🎄 Although every Christmas market tends to be busy on the weekends, Haguenau never has the crazy crowds that the larger markets do. And during the week and in daylight it’s downright mellow and civilized! It’s the perfect-sized market for some Christmas chill, and Joyeaux Fêtes!
🛍 There are lots of amazing food options at the Haguenau Christmas market, including the best of German, French, and uniquely Alsacian tradition. There are also many beautiful handmade local items like leather goods, jewelry, and decor items for sale, and of course nativity scenes!
🐾The Haguenau Christmas market is dog-friendly! Just be sure your furry little elf is leashed and behaves well around people and activity. No, my dog (even though she is a frenchie) does not qualify to go to the Haguenau Christmas market except early in the day before things get going.
Haguenau Christmas Market Pro Tips
🇫🇷 Bonjour!
Even if you speak no other french, always begin by saying “Bonjour!” This is an important cultural tradition in France, and if you do that, people will bend over backwards to help you. If you don’t do it, you risk being thought of as rude. So when in France, do as the French do! And don’t forget ‘merci’ (thank you)!
🌞🌛Day to Night
Like all Christmas markets, you’ll want to see that magical transformation from day to night, when Haguenau changes from a cute wintery french town into a magical wonderland of light and festivity. Huge snowflakes dance across buildings, the old clock tower glows with light, the vin chaud fills mugs, and you will be absolutely transported.
💶 Money
Definitely bring cash, since many booths will only accept cash. Understand the exchange rate so you’ll know what you’re spending and how much to bring. France, like Germany uses the Euro which is usually worth slightly more than the dollar. Just Google “Dollar to Euro conversion” and today’s exchange rate will pop up for you. You’ll find most things at the market to be very reasonably priced.
🧤What to wear
Hats, mittens or gloves, a warm coat, and a scarf will serve you well, especially in the evening.
Also, smartwool socks, and comfortable warm shoes or insulated walking boots are a must! If you’re wearing sneakers, make sure they aren’t the ventilated kind.
Check out this link for the current weather conditions in Haguenau. Know what to expect before you plan your time at the market.
☕ Mug protocol
Vin chaud and chocolat come in a cute ceramic mug, and the cost of the mug (usually a couple euros) will be included in your charge. If you want to return the mug when you’re done, they will refund you the cost that you paid. Or you can keep the mug as a souvenir if you like! Each market has a different mug each year, and it’s a fun and inexpensive keepsake to collect. Having my coffee in a Christmas market mug makes me smile any time of the year!
Nearby Sites to Explore
The Haguenau Christmas market is not the only thing to see in this beautiful town. Haguenau is full of history, whimsy, and charm! The city center itself is beautiful and contains many quaint little shops, cafés, bakeries, and restaurants to explore.
Despite the destruction that Haguenau has suffered throughout many wars, most notably the Thirty Years War and the Second World War, you can still find buildings, art, and places of interest throughout the city which have survived for hundreds of years.
Medieval Gates
Amazingly, Haguenau retains three of its Medieval gates – the Tour des Chevaliers (Tower of the Knights), the Porte de Wissembourg (Wissembourg Gate) and the Tour des Pêcheurs (Fishermen’s Tower). These are all an easy walk from the market and the old city center.
Churches
Also surviving are the two large Gothic churches – Saint-Georges (birthplace of the nativity scene) and Saint-Nicolas. Both are worth a pop-in, despite having lost many artworks and their original stained glass windows.
World War 2 History
Haguenau’s World War II history is one of its most interesting aspects, and for those who enjoyed the miniseries Band of Brothers, check out episode eight which is set in Haguenau! You can also download a map and walking tour of interesting sites from the Haguenau tourism office.
Historic Buildings and Fountains
Among many other old buildings you’ll no doubt come across as you drift around the market area are an old water mill, the old custom house (Ancienne Douane), the Synagogue from 1820, the Municipal Theater from 1846, and the Basilica of Our Lady – a huge gothic revival sanctuary from the mid-1800s. Inside this one you’ll find two statues from the early 1400s, and many more from the early 1500s!
Also keep your eyes open for the 18th and 19th century fountains around town – the Bee Fountain, the Dolphin Fountain, and the St. Georges Fountain.
Museums
And if you’re a museum or history lover, you’re also in luck! Be sure to explore the Haguenau Historical Museum (Musée Historique de Haguenau), and the Alsacian Museum (Musée Alsacien which is located in the former palace of the chancellor – a beautiful Renaissance building. For a quirkier and more specialized museum trip, don’t forget the Luggage Museum (Musée du Bagage) in a former mid 19th century villa.
Directions to Haguenau Christmas Market
For details on getting to the unforgettable Haguenau Christmas market (or anywhere) this is a great website that allows you to plug in origin and destination and check out this website which gives you all the ways to get to Haguenau from wherever you are.
🚉 Haguenau By Train
It’s only a 10 minute walk from the train station to the center of the Christmas Market.
- From Frankfurt Main Station: 2 hours 41 minutes
- From Paris (Est): 2 hours 36 minutes
- From Strasbourg, France: 35 minutes
- From Cologne: 5 hours
- From Kaiserslautern: 2 hours 58 minutes
🚗 Haguenau By Car
If you are driving, you’ll find many parking places surrounding the pedestrian zone. The map shows these parking places which may be a 10-12 minute walk from the market.
- From Frankfurt: 1 hour 55 minutes
- From Paris: 4 hours 25 minutes
- From Strasbourg: 26 minutes
- From Cologne: 3 hours 13 minutes
- From Kaiserslautern: 1 hour 34 minutes
🚌 Haguenau By Bus
The bus will drop you right by the main train station which is just outside the pedestrian area, and a 10 minute walk to the market.
- From Frankfurt: 5 hours 32 minutes
- From Strasbourg, France: 52 minutes
- From Cologne: 8 hours 7 minutes
- From Stuttgart Airport: 3 hours 12 minutes
✈️ Closest Airports to Haguenau
Strasbourg Airport (France) is closest, but Stuttgart (Germany), Frankfurt (Germany), Basel (Switzerland), and Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden (Germany) are also good options.
I hope you get the opportunity to experience the unique Alsacian magic of the Haguenau Christmas market for yourself, and enjoy all this city and beautiful region has to offer!
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