After visiting over a dozen markets in Europe last season, my family decided that the Speyer Christmas market in Germany was our overall favorite! It wasn’t the fanciest, or the biggest, and we even ended up there on a rainy day, but for us it hit the magical sweet spot for everything we wanted in a Christmas market experience – atmosphere, decor, food and drink, shopping, entertainment, size, and local feel.
Dates of the Speyer Christmas market
Monday, November 25, 2024 – Friday, January 6, 2025
Yes, Speyer is one of the markets open the full 12 days of Christmas!
Opening Hours
Sunday -Thursday: 11am – 9pm (market stalls close at 8 on Sundays)
Friday and Saturday: 11am – 10pm
Limited hours on:
Christmas Eve: 10am to 1pm
December 25 and 26: CLOSED
December 31: 11am to 3pm
New Years Day: 1pm to 9pm
Location of the Speyer Christmas market
The Christmas magic happens right in the city center, spanning the area from Europe’s largest Romanesque cathedral all the way down Maximillianstraße to the old medieval city gate.
The City of Speyer, which sits on the west bank of the Rhine River southwest of Mannheim and Heidelberg, is part of the magic itself. From the Celts to the Romans to the Franks to the Holy Roman Empire and the Middle Ages, Speyer has many stories to tell. The Speyer Cathedral itself is one of the most significant and interesting landmarks in all of Europe and its massive edifice serves as the backdrop for the market. And all the many pieces of its history can be seen in the Historical Museum of the Palatinate right across the street.
Atmosphere
The Speyer Christmas market is just plain beautiful. It has all the traditional ornaments and garlands and little white lights, decorated market stalls with reindeer on the roof, plenty of spaces to eat at covered decorated table stands, Christmas trees everywhere, magical shop windows lining the streets, and illuminated decorations shaped like the cathedral and the tower arching over the cobblestone street.
All this would be spectacular enough, but add Speyer’s massive 900-year old Romanesque cathedral on one side, and the medieval town gate on the other side, and you have a stunning historical market that looks like a postcard from beginning to end.
And the smell! The warm spice of hot mulled wine, the roasting candied almonds, the sizzling bratwurst… You have to pinch yourself to make sure it’s all real.
The Food!
The food and drink was one of the things that made the Speyer Christmas market our favorite. The food itself was fantastic, with all the classics – grilled bratwurst, pretzels, potato pancakes, and the best spaetzle (think German mac and cheese topped with caramelized onions) I’ve ever had (and I’ve had my share!) But in addition to that, there were several cute little places to relax and soak in the market while you enjoyed all that delicious German Christmas fare.
There was plenty of space to stand and eat at long tables, but there were also smaller tables for 2-4 people, some with cozy flickering flames in the center. There were even a couple spots tucked away behind the stalls in quiet little garden-like havens of glowing lights, with their own food stalls nearby.
And do not leave without having my favorite German dessert, the dampfnudel! It’s a slightly sticky, slightly crispy, sweet-with-a-hint-of-salty steamed dumpling smothered in vanilla or wine sauce. Heaven!
Drink – Prost!
And Speyer really knows how to do the beverages too! In addition to the classic white and red glühwein (hot spiced wine), there were options to up the octane by adding Amaretto or rum! There was also eierliquorpunsch (warm eggnog punch), and kinderpunsch for the kiddos (or the adults who have hit their quota but still want a warm beverage).
The beer and wine flows in Speyer also, and we were even treated to a shot of schnaps from one of the vendors! Definitely have a designated driver or a walkable hotel before you begin your market experience in Speyer if you plan to indulge!
Shopping at the Speyer Christmas Market
The Speyer Christmas Market excelled in the shopping category too! We noticed many more handcrafted items than in most markets, running the gamut from hand-knit winter wear, to leather goods, to carved wooden Christmas figures, soaps and candles, and jewelry that was really beautiful.
There were also giant balls of mistletoe available for purchase, photos, and smooches!
And Maximillianstraße itself lines the market route with stores that have beautiful window shopping, bakeries, gift shops, and food stores, all of which get in on the Christmas spirit and give an added dimension to the market. Plus, you can duck in and warm up while you browse all the amazing German goods.
We came home from the market loaded with liqueurs and chocolates, cookies, knit hats and gloves, and I even ended up with a new wallet!
Entertainment
We didn’t have little ones with us, but as the mom of formerly-small kids, this market seems perfect for families. There’s an adorable little Christmas train down by the Old Gate that runs a flat loop around a cute decorated area.
There’s also an ice skating rink with fun “driving aids” shaped like penguins and polar bears for kids to hold on to if they need it. It costs only a few euros to skate, and there is a skate rental available with lots of sizes, or you can bring your own.
And don’t miss the gorgeous antique carousel right in front of Speyer cathedral for the ultimate Christmas photos! *swoon*
You can also watch craftspeople hard at work at some of the stalls, and there are various other events planned throughout the market season like the “Tower on Fire” which is a beautiful fireworks and light show right at the Old Gate.
Why the Speyer Christmas market?
✅ Perfect size
Not too big and overwhelming, not too small that you’re done in an hour. It was the perfect place for a 4-5 hour visit which allowed time to see the market, eat a ton of food, and tour the cathedral.
🇩🇪 Less touristy
You really get the feeling that you’re part of the local Christmas market scene. Were there some tourists there? Of course. But at some of the more popular larger markets, it can feel a little too crowded and full of tourists and less like an authentic German Christmas market experience.
🛍 Great shopping
Both the market stalls, and all the little shops on Maximillainstraße and its side streets were treasure troves of great gift ideas (for yourself and others!)
🍴Awesome food and drink
With that spaetzele, a dampfnudel, and a drink menu taller than me, I was pretty happy. And so were my two fellow marketeers who loved the white gluhwein, the fried potato pancakes, beef goulash, and brats!
⛪️ Historical backdrop
I’m a sucker for a historic giant cathedral, and Speyer delivers. It and the charming medieval gate on the other end of the market provide great landscapes for your Christmas market photos and add a real sense of history to the experience.
👨👩👧👦 Great for kids
This market is just where I’d go if I had little ones in tow. It’s not loud and obnoxious, there are no flashing lights or crazy rides. It’s just delightful, old-fashioned fun and games. And again, great photo opportunities. And the market isn’t so crazy I’d worry about losing them!
Christmas Market pro-tips
🌞🌛Timing
Like all Christmas markets, the day vs. night experience makes a big difference. Daytime is for fewer crowds, checking out the market stalls, soaking in the history and enjoying the architecture, and grabbing lunch. It’s also a little warmer.
As day turns to night, a winter chill sets in, the twinkling lights come on, and the whole market transforms into a glittering winter wonderland. Mittens and hot glüwein only add to the festivity.
💶 Cash
Definitely bring cash, since many booths will only take cash euros. If you are coming from outside the “Euro-zone” understand the exchange rate so you’ll know what you’re spending and how much to bring. Usually the Euro is worth slightly more than the US dollar. Just Google “Dollar to Euro conversion,” and you’ll see the current exchange rate. You’ll find most things at the market very reasonably priced.
🧤What to wear
Layers layers layers! Hats, mittens or gloves, a warm coat, and a scarf will serve you well, especially in the evening. Also, Germany can be very rainy so bring a collapsible umbrella that will fit in your tote bag or coat pocket if the weather looks rainy. If you do forget something, it will be a good excuse to pick up a fabulous hand-knit accesory from one of the stalls!
Also, smartwool socks, and comfortable warm shoes or walking boots are a must! If you’re wearing sneakers, make sure they aren’t the ventilated kind. Nothing kills the mood like cold wet feet!
Check out this link for the 10-day weather forecast in Speyer. Know what to expect before you plan your time at the market and be prepared.
If you do need to warm up, the cathedral is a great spot to duck inside!
☕ Mug protocol
Glühwein, Eierliquorpunsch, and Kinderpunsch (non-alcoholic) will all come in a ceramic mug and the cost of the mug (usually a couple dollars) will be included in your charge as a deposit, or “pfand.” If you want to return the mug when you’re done, you’ll be refunded the cost that you paid. Or you can keep the mug as a souvenir if you like! Every market has a different mug each year. I have a large and growing collection of Christmas market mugs!
🐾 Dog-friendliness
The Speyer Christmas market like most places in Germany is dog friendly! That said, there’s a lot of stimulation and people and other dogs. So if your little guy or gal is reactive or gets overwhelmed, it’s best to leave them home or at the hotel while you enjoy the market.
Nearby Sights to Explore
Speyer Cathedral and Crypt
The Speyer Cathedral is completely massive, and the largest Romanesque cathedral in the world. It’s right next to the Christmas market so you definitely won’t miss it, and it’s a great place to pop into if you need a warm up, or to get out of the rain. But don’t just save it for a rainy day!
The first basilica on the site was built by Konrad II in 1030AD! It’s not every day you can walk into a thousand year old building! Don’t expect lots of frills and golden statues, or mosaics and stained glass. Do expect a quiet, massive stone enclosure that makes you feel like an ant.
The thing I loved the most about the space was its simplicity and its size. It feels like it’s been there forever, and will be forever. Look at the enormous stone blocks, walk the arched galleries, and don’t forget to pay the few euros necessary to descend the stairs into the crypt where the remains of no fewer than eight emporers and kings, four queens, and a slew of bishops are interred.
You can also climb the tower for a spectacular view of the Rhine Valley and see the hall of the emperors which showcases some beautiful 19th century frescoes. If you are a history buff, this is a must-do.
Altportal
At the other end of the market you will find the Old Gate (Altportal). It’s first incarnation dates to between 1220 and 1250, when it served as the west gate to the city. Back then the city was walled with a total of 68 towers, one of which is the Altportal which you can walk through today.
The top portion was rebuilt in the early 1500s, and the roof was added 200 years later.
During important religious occasions, the emperor and his entourage would enter through the west gate, and walk down the road (which is where the Christmas market is located) to the cathedral at the other end.
Speyer loves its Altportal, and you’ll find its shape everywhere from jewelry to stationery to gingerbread!
Museum of the Palatinate
If you have a few extra hours in Speyer, the Museum of the Palatinate is absolutely worth checking out! Be sure to seek out the “Golden Hat of Schifferstadt” from the 14th century BC! Absolutely astounding.
It covers the history of the area including prehistory, the Celts, the Roman period, all the way through the modern era. There you will also find the Cathedral Treasury, and the Wine Museum.
The museum is also known for its fantastic special exhibits, and a children’s museum area within the larger museum, so be sure to check those out as well.
Mittelalterlicher Judenhof
Speyer has a long Jewish history beginning in the early middle ages. Today you can visit the medieval remains of the old synagogue, the women’s prayer room, a teaching and study area, and a ritual bath called a Mikvah, which is the oldest recorded in Europe. There is also a small indoor museum with artifacts and information.
The Jewish community in Speyer flourished after the Bishop of Speyer issued a decree of protection for the community in 1084, encouraging Jews from other areas to settle in Speyer and establish roots to help grow the community and the economy. These protections were later extended by the Emperor.
But the Thirty Years War in the 1600s saw the end of the Jewish community in Speyer and the buildings were heavily damaged. They were repurposed and used over the centuries until 1999 when the city purchased the complex and removed the later building work.
It’s a fascinating and contemplative place, and we enjoyed spending some time there.
Speyer Sealife
Great for kids, fans of ocean life, and anyone who wants a little break from the cold. Speyer Sealife features turtles, sharks, rays, jellyfish, and a whole coral reef ecosystem. There are more than 40 tanks and 3000 marine critters to visit!
*You MUST have a pre-booked ticket purchased online to guarantee entry! They have recently enforced limits on the number of guests, so if you want to be sure you’ll make it inside, prepare ahead of time.
*There is no parking at the facility but you can park nearby at the fairground (Festplatz). For parking enter “Speyer, Festplatz” in Google Maps. For public transportation, also enter the Festplatz stop.
Technik museum
This is a great place to discover all kinds of technology from underwater to space! You can explore a Russian space shuttle, a German U-boat, a Boeing 747, cars, fire engines, locomotives, motorcycles, even mechanical musical instruments! Absolutely fascinating, and great for kids and adults. Visitor information with directions, parking, and ticketing is at the link in the heading.
Get Your Guide!
And because it’s always better with a knowledgeable guide, here’s where you can find all the best Speyer tours from the Cathedral, Old Town, and Jewish Heritage, to behind the scenes at the Sea Life Center, to the Technik Museum and its IMAX dome! If you’ve enjoyed this post and book through that link, I’ll make a small commission at no cost to you, so thank you!
Getting to the Speyer Christmas Market
Speyer is well-connected by train, and easy to get to by car, but just far enough off the beaten path to keep from getting overcrowded. Here are the details from some nearby spots, but check out this website which will tell you easily how to get to Speyer (or anywhere) from wherever you are!
From Frankfurt
🚉 By Train: 2 hours 9 minutes (+ 15 minute walk from train station to market)
🚗 By Car: 1 hour 20 minutes
From Kaiserslautern
🚉 By Train: 1 hour 19 minutes (+ 15 minute walk from train station to market)
🚗 By Car: 45 minutes
From Heidelberg
🚉 By Train: 49 minutes (+ 15 minute walk from train station to market)
🚗 By Car: 27 minutes
From Stuttgart
🚉 By train: 1 hour 25 minutes (+ 15 minute walk from train station to market)
🚗 By car: 1 hour 19 minutes
🅿️ Parking
Here’s a map with parking facilities marked. The red arrows indicate the train station (upper left), and the Speyer Cathedral where the Speyer Christmas market begins.
✈️ Closest Airports to Speyer
The five closest airports to Speyer are Frankfurt (FRA), Stuttgart (STR), Luxembourg (LUX), Karlsruhe/BadenBaden (FKB), and Nuremberg (NUE).
See You at the Speyer Christmas Market!
I hope you’re able to make it to the Speyer Christmas market, whether it’s a quick stop before you fly out of Frankfurt Airport, a day trip from Kaiserslautern, or built in to a larger Christmas holiday in Germany. It has all the very best that Germany has to offer, and like us you’ll be thinking about it and reliving the fun long after the market is over.
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